The Adventures of H. Leatherbury

Day 5 - Nashville to Home

2009-02-09T11:13:00.003-05:00

Well folks, no pictures here - my camera was out of battery power. So, imagine if you will, the offices of the Tennessee Arts Commission. I entered the first floor of a large government building where I was asked to provide my driver's license for entry and subsequently watched as my picture (unfortunate befuddled look on face) was snapped by the same machine that scanned my license and produced a name tag with said information and picture scanned onto it. High tech.

As I made my way into the offices of the Commission, I noticed that they are quite colorful, and also, quite under renovation - new gallery space is coming soon. The artwork from the gallery ended up in all sorts of interesting places, including the Conference Room where I met with the very passionate staff and talked about SouthernArtistry.org. Lots of interesting ideas for surveying artists on the site and finding new marketing outlets to increase site traffic. Thanks to the staff for 2+ hours of your time and tips on good Mexican food in downtown Nashville.

The 3 hour drive home ended with Atlanta Friday rush hour traffic (you don't want to imagine this part) and my practicing ujayi breathing to keep myself calm as I drove through said traffic to a 3-hour installment of the yoga intensive program I am taking at Kashi Atlanta - the city's only urban ashram known for their service work and $5 yoga classes. Ah, to be home!

Day 4 - Music City and singing bowls

2009-02-05T18:23:00.007-05:00

My one regret from today was not getting a picture of the group that assembled before me at 11:00 this morning at the W.O. Smith School of Music. Over 30 TN artists of all disciplines and from all over the state in one room learning about SouthernArtistry.org! The building we were in was gorgeous and provided free parking, along with the hospitable and technically savvy, Jonah Rabinowitz, who saved me from mortal embarrassment by figuring out the wireless security settings on my computer so that I could use the Internet during my workshop. For those artists reading this who did not get to attend, the presentation resources can be found here. Also, for those wanting to see what the 'freestyle poling' that I do is all about, check out Crossover Movement Arts. You can also watch a video of our founder, Blake Dalton, performing on the pole.

The workshop was followed by a visit to Kaaren Engel's studio to talk about her latest exhibition - ROAD TRIP. How could I pass that up?! In addition to seeing her work, her floor - a piece of art in itself, I was able to listen to her play "singing bowls" beautiful metal bowls used for meditation practices the world over, and also used by Kaaren for healing and relaxation workshops. A video of singing bowls and Kaaren talking about her work is coming soon! For now, take a look at her studio - what a place to work and play.

Tonight, I'm staying at the Scarritt Bennett Center - great mission, great staff, great price. There is a Labrynth here for walking meditation - yea, this is my kind of place.

Day 3 - NCAC and driving in the SNOW

2009-02-05T18:08:00.004-05:00

After a breakfast of corn meal cakes (the meal gathered from a mill/farm owned by friends of Gretchin and George) and fresh fruit, I found my way to the state capitol, and got my badge for the NCAC. Lots of good questions about the registry and thoughts about it's future - a new gallery for fellowship artists? A marketing research plan using the power of our interns? Crossover between the local registry? I've got my thinking cap on. Thanks NCAC staff for this priceless "candid" shot.

After a quick lunch, it was on to Knoxville - 6.5 hour drive. It was just before Black Mountain, NC where I pulled over and had a Dairy Queen blizzard (my road-food weekness). Ironically, I was rewarded just three miles later when I got back on the road with snow. It was snowing while I was driving. This was new for me as a FL/GA girl. I braced myself and follwed the semi truck tire tracks at about 45 mph for the next 30 minutes. I know what the word 'sinister' looks like now. Who knew it would have applied to a landscape and weather patern?

I made it safely to Knox and indulged in homemade lasagne and brownies with the Sykes -- family friends are invaluable. Thank goodness for small blessings and good stopping points.

Day 2 - SCAC and SC Artists HOORAY

2009-02-03T22:38:00.011-05:00

I am always inspired by getting to match faces with names, especially if the faces are those of individuals who work hard for artists (and arts orgs!) everyday. I have so much affection for my friends at the South Carolina Arts Commission. My morning presentation with staff was quite fun; we had a good set up (thanks Randall and Laurel), Earl Grey tea, and a SouthernArtistry.org artist present to boot!

The workshop finished with enough time to go to an area of Columbia, SC undergoing a renaissance (we see these in Atlanta ALOT) - the Vista. Laurel and Jeanette picked out the spot. We talked about everything from the hardships facing the local arts community in the current economic downturn to Cirque du Soleil. I ate organic chicken and brown rice (all for under the amount of my nonprofit meal per-diem) with enough left over for dinner.

I returned to find about twenty SouthernArtistry.org artists in the conference room ready to learn about how to maximize their profiles on the registry. Lots of visual artists, a good showing of writers, a magician and a folk-singer too! Here's a pic of those fine folks who turned out and hopefully got something out of our hour together.

For those artists reading this who did not get to attend, the presentation resources can be found here. Also, for those wanting to see what the 'freestyle poling' that I do is all about, check out Crossover Movement Arts. You can also watch a video of our founder, Blake Dalton, performing on the pole.

I got on the road about 4:30 in the afternoon to miss rush hour traffic out of Columbia. Unfortunately, I hit a stand still a mere 2 hours into my drive up to Raleigh, NC. Despite the frustration that my drive would now be closer to 4 hours, this gave me the perfect opportunity to actually eat my leftover brown rice and chicken without ever having to get up out of my car!

I have so much respect for George and Gretchin, my hosts at Woodburn Cottage. They took my late check in, and revised late check in, and "I think I missed the turn" calls in stride. Once I arrived, they offered me a night cap and a sit by the fire. It did wonders. They entertained my road brain with stories of the short stint that Margaret Mitchell had living in this very house and of their Torpedo-inspired gallery space. I fell in love with my room the minute I saw the bookshelf.

Day 1 - Rainy Monday

2009-02-03T22:24:00.005-05:00

A short post today to tell you that my drive lasted all 3 hours and 19 minutes as predicted by Google Maps taking me from Atlanta to Columbia. On such a rainy Monday, it was for these 4 things I gave thanks:

1. A boss who drives his car-less employee to the rental lot despite an impending meeting and rush hour to battle his way back to said meeting.

2. 9.39 FM - "The Drive" - 18 consecutive songs w/o commercial interuption. Classic ROCK. (You don't get this is GA folks, it's all SC).

3. NOT stepping in the largest pile of dip I've ever seen when exiting my car to use the gas station facilities south of Augusta, SC.

4. The Which Which "Wall" in Columbia, SC. Pictures do not do this wall-o-sandwich bag-orders justice. Sufice to say, the little business that asks you to write down your sandwich order on a brown paper bag with a red sharpie marker has made a wall out of people's creativity. Check out the Gorilla marketing by the Carolina Ballet. Go arts orgs!

Day 4 - Obama's Inauguration

2009-01-22T13:03:00.008-05:00

6:30 a.m., alarm goes off, we are out the door by 7:15 a.m. Our walk will take us about 20 blocks (this is not 20 blocks, but a snippet of the calm before the storm):

The storm begins. This is a view of the 3rd Street tunnel / 395 that takes us under the Mall to get to the Silver Ticket entry gate:

We end up in a precarious position when a police officer directs us back from the tunnel and towards what he says is the Silver Gate entry point (it turns out to be the Purple Gate entry point - unfortunately close to an office building with some landscaping) 9:30 a.m.

Here’s us after re-crossing the tunnel and waiting in the line at the Silver Gate – Now 11:00 a.m.

We make it in just before the police close off the road with half a dozen squad cars and a bunch of motorcycles. The crowd surges forward and I briefly, but clearly, imagine being trampled. I try to remain calm and Bobby sticks his elbows out and we are pushed forward into plastic barriers. We jump them, there is no turning back now. This is our view.

The end of the ceremony and crowds dispersing - if that is what you can call it.

We finish the day with a ride home on the Metro, where we have to split up to fit each one of us on a separate car. We arrive home to champagne, steak and potatoes at Mom and Dad’s. Today is an unforgettable day.

Day 3 - National Day of Service

2009-01-22T13:00:00.002-05:00

Monday, Martin Luther King Day, is a national day of service. So much of Obama’s message over the course of his campaign and the course of this weekend has been about being involved in change and service to your community and your country. My sister has been volunteering with the Saturday Environmental Academy for the past few months and she invited Bobby and I to join her and the group in a tree planting ceremony down near Anacostia Park in DC. We arrived via Metro and transferred to an old school bus outfitted as a tour bus (keep and eye out for the bunks in the ceiling) the driver was volunteering to shuttle people back and forth the 1.5 mile walk to the site.

On the ride home, we were told by a district official that all 44 trees (symbolic of the Presidential Inauguration) would likely die in the winter months to follow – she said she’s been to dozens of these ceremonies and it happens. I wondered why they had not instituted a trash pick up – there was certainly plenty of that around. Why plant something for the symbolism of it? What keeps coming to mind is another Obama-esque message – change takes time.

Here's a taste of the Metro on the night before the Inauguration:

We finally make it to Logan Circle, where our Inauguration homebase is located. Our night ends with ice cream (cold does not diminish the craving), jambalaya (little warming action going on), and a celebration. Our friends Allison and Mike had found us four additional tickets in the Silver section for the Inauguration! At the same time, Shelby's friend Candice had gotten three tickets to the Yellow section (closer and seated). It’s a given that 24 hours before the event happens, these tickets are flying around, all the extras are “released”. Here’s my sister talking to Allision about “getting the hook up”….

I fall asleep wedged between Bobby and Meagan on an air mattress. History will be made tomorrow.

Day 2 - We Are One Concert

2009-01-22T12:04:00.001-05:00

We awoke this morning to plans for brunch in Dupont Circle. This required a METRO ride. We were pleasantly surprised, as the crowds have not yet amassed. We arrive in Dupont Circle and sit down to lunch. Between the seven people at our brunch table, there are two with apartments in the DC area - they each have between 4 and 8 guests staying with them the night before the inauguration. Bless them. They noted that the cafe was notably empty - signs of locals running for cover?

Our walk post-lunch takes us past Dupont Circle and Filene's Basement where both Bobby and Meagan stock up on gloves - the ear muff rack has been completely desecrated by the time we arrive. About twenty minutes later, we are all needing a post-coffee/tea pit stop. Conveniently our friend John granted us access to his office on the way. With our various and assundry layered clothing ensembles (Bobby has an honest to god union jack suit on), this stop takes approximately 15 minutes. The crowds are looking healthy as we emerge and head down to the Lincoln Memorial.

While there were lots of good feelings, there was also some scolding as people tried to cut one another in the lines to get through the security tents and into the concert area. Various techniques from Boo-ing the trespassers, to body barricading, to point blank yelling "PEOPLE, THERE IS A LINE HERE AND WE ARE ALL IN IT" (thank you MR. Australian man with the cohones for standing up to the mutiny) were employed. Much praise to the valient volunteers in the red ski caps who tried to keep order while the military patrols and police officers stood behind the barricades and away from the masses.

P.S. No bags or backpacks allowed, and open your coats wide for the officers at the table.

This is pretty much why I decided to come here. The energy was amazing as Obama and Michelle descended the stairs of the Lincoln Memorial.

Mary J. Blige sings "Lean On Me"

After John Mellencamp and the massive chior, we bolt for the nearest Metro to make it home in time for dinner in Takoma Park, just about our only quality family trip while we are on this crazy trip.

Day 1 - The 11 hour ride

2009-01-22T11:45:00.003-05:00

Red Chevy Cobalt, 11 hours of road time. We get giddy about half-way in:

The Journey to the Inauguration Begins

2009-01-18T08:43:00.008-05:00

When Bobby and I showed up to the rental car lot at the airport on Friday night, we were directed to stall 131, where our Mustang coupe awaited. I was quite surprised, as we had rented an economy car. Although they had upgraded us, the passengers in the back would have had the luxery of hermit crabs. We went to change the car - they gave us a red chevy cobalt, thus ended my chances for ever driving a muscle car. I'm OK with it. I am not OK with the complimentary navigation system that came with the Cobalt, which, turns on without request. Bobby lets "her" talk for awhile until I reach my breaking point.

I returned home to play with the office video camera for several trails before determining that I was indeed qualified to work it, here's a great video of Bobby being Mr. SmartyPants.

51st Monterey Jazz Festival Tour - 10 weeks, 54 cities

2008-02-11T12:55:00.001-05:00

The producers of the renowned Monterey Jazz Festival put together an all star group of performers spanning the best in jazz greats for three decades -- from 82 year-old, saxaphonist James Moody to the young, but seasoned percussionist Kendrick Scott. Since January 8th, the All Star Band has made its way from Bellingham, Washinton to our fair city of Atlanta. During this time, they have performed 90-minute sets every night save six -- and they have another month and a half to go!

It is at this point on the tour that I met up with vocalist, composer, and arts education advocate, Nnenna Freelon. Even at the month-long milestone of being on the road, she is resilient. Despite a fighting a cold, her voice sounds like honey. Her energy is palpable and her thoughts on traveling and teaching emerging artists the challenges of the career were genuine. Here's Nnenna talking about the Monterey Jazz Festival 50th All Star Band.

Check to see the tour's upcoming venues by scrolling to the bottom of the page at www.montereyjazzfestival.org/MJF50-band. Also, Nnenna's tour diary has some great insights into road tripping.

Art Appraisal

2008-01-24T14:07:00.000-05:00

It is sometimes a burden and sometimes a gift to be the one on the receiving end of a web site "contact us" form. Throughout the two years playing that role on the Southern Arts Federation's adjudicated, online, artist registry SouthernArtistry.org, the most frequently asked question I get, other than how to join the site (it's juried through state arts agencies) always involves the appraisal of artwork.

You'd be surprised at the helplessness that people feel when looking at a piece of art that they have acquired and that they know absolutely nothing about. Typically, the original artist has scrawled an illegible signature on the piece, which is worse than trying to read a doctor's 'prescription' handwriting. In the absence of the signature, the art owner tries to remember details about the piece - usually it involves the place where the piece was purchased or where the artist lived in edition to diclosing why they are trying to get rid of the work, sometimes heart-breaking (divorce, unexpected inheritance) and sometimes funny (re-gifting.)

In response to these request, I took to Google and found a VERY helpful site for researching artists by their style and location, as well as, connecting with dealers and auctioneers for appraisals. Some services are fee-based, but some are free. Check out www.AskArt.com.

Interview with Ken Murphy

2008-01-16T11:06:00.000-05:00

Wow, here is a man who has had more experience than I could dare to dream - from spending two years in a body cast to photographing the landscape of Mississippi over the course of two decades -- Ken Murphy. (Photo courtesy of Rick Dobbs.)

His first book, My South Coast Home is one of the few remaining chronicles of the MS coast prior to Hurricane Katrina. His second book, Mississippi, has been noted for it's eloquence in capturing all parts of the state - as you will hear him note in the interview, Mississippi has been overlooked for way too long. Listen to the interview now.

John McCutcheon and Winter's Light Festival

2007-12-17T15:30:00.000-05:00

Last night, I sat for over two hours in a room with no heat. This is significant considering it was the first 30 degree weather we had received in Atlanta following an entire week of make-you-want-to-wear-a-tank-top weather in the 80's.

What kept me in this room for so long, was the body heat of over a hundred scarf-wearing locals and more particularly, the presence of John McCutcheon. John was kind enough to share his thoughts on performing with me during a pre-show interview (the full interview will be posted in March) and again throughout the entire show - he is an amazing storyteller. Not to mention the fact that he plays so many musical instruments that he could not give me an accurate count of that number. And, he plays these instruments well. Listen to John "warming up" on the hammer dulcimer. John's formal musical training started with piano lessons as a young boy, but eventually spiraled into an adventure of hitch-hiking and word-of-mouth referals during a 3-month study "abroad" in the mountains of Kentucky with a banjo.

Although from Atlanta, John travels quite a bit - he was able to spend some real time here thanks to the Southern Order of Storytellers (SOS) and the Interfaith Story Circle (ISC). These two organizations help support story-tellers in the region with Conferences and meet-up storytelling sessions. Audrey Galex, storyteller and video biographer, told me how the ISC chapter got started in Atlanta and about the annual "Winters Light" event (Listen now). If you are interested in getting involved, Audrey can be reached at audrey@rootswings.com. SOS President, Feriel Feldman told me about the SOS and gave one of the best observations about storytelling that I've heard in recent memory (Listen now).

I encourage those in town reading this to attend the next Winter's Light event, with or without an extra pair of gloves. Also, mark your calendars for January 25-26th when Winter StoryFest hits, headlined by storyteller, NPR guest, and children's book author, Carmen Deedy.

Day 7 (with a few days missing inbetween) - Atlanta, GA

2007-12-12T20:19:00.000-05:00

Well. No one ever said public transportation in Atlanta was easy. For those of you who read earlier blog posts, yes, I sold the car on Craiglist which will pay for a decent bike and an unlimited 30 day pass on our lovely transit system - MARTA. A note on Craigslist - it's the BEST free classifieds by the people, for the people. Within 30 minutes of posting my offer for the car, I had two phone calls. Within an hour of posting it, I had $200 cash in my pocket and Jose hauling off my decrepit Toyota to be sold for parts.

Back to the real story. Today, I had the pleasure of being offered a ride by Jai James (Georgia Council for the Arts - GCA) who insisted that I should not lug my lap top from the MARTA bus stop to the Georgia Public Broadcast Building, where the GCA offices are housed and where I would be hosting my 5th and final workshop for 2007. Walking inside of the building, I remembered how beautiful I have always found it - most spectacular is the Georgia State Arts Collection which happens to adorn the walls and the interior. Two artists who attended the workshop, Ruth Gogel and David Eugene Henry, had the pleasure of re-uniting with their pieces in the state collection as they walked through the lobby. Also in attendance today were the good folks from Gateway Performance Productions, Atlanta Ballet, 7 Stages, Beacon Dance, Piccadilly Puppets, Harmonie Universelle as well as, Don Cooper, David Sampson, and the winner for the longest drive - all the way from Birmingham, AL!- Carolyn Sherer. We talked about Web design and Site Optimization - see www.SouthArts.org/workshops for more on the presentation.

I left feeling so glad to be doing the work that I do. So glad to be meeting the people who make the world snap to attention with their creative endeavors. Ben Wilson (GCA) who was kind enough to play my host for the day, shared his pleasure with getting to hear Ruth Gogel point to various pieces of the state arts collection and name the artists with a great sense of familiarity.

This brings me back to the beginning of my story, public transportation. I absolutely loved the fact that I did not have to kill that moment by hopping into my car and fighting Atlanta traffic. Instead, I hopped onto a Georgia Tech stinger shuttle, which is free even if you are not a student - YEA - and ended up in the middle of a campus full of college-age engineers. Although I was trying to reach the mid-town MARTA station and did not realize until 25 minutes into the ride that the particular shuttle I had chosen did not drop off there (the Tech TROLLEY did) my foible cost me only the unbearable misfortune of standing in 75 degree weather on a cloudless December day regretting only my choice of wardrobe. Heels and a skirt are quite hindering to visions of racing over a campus lawn for a few moments with bare feet.

An Interview with Teo Castellanos

2007-11-12T11:04:00.000-05:00

Just got off of the phone with the amazing Teo Castellanos who had just finished his breakfast of organic oatmeal and soymilk after a morning of meditation and yoga. Teo is an actor/writer/director/choreographer/world-traveller based out of Miami. He recently brought "Scratch and Burn" - a choreographed peace ritual involving breakdance, multi-media, and ancient rituals from the Zulu and Maori cultures to Atlanta. I was lucky enough to see the work at 7 Stages. One image in particular stays with me - four men in a circle facing the cardinal directions while a 5th man, curled into a ball and wrapped in gauze sits in the middle of their circle. The men, who have assumed very primitive stances (and by this I mean ape-like) are gaurding the 5th man. Deep down, our primitive roots guide us towards compassion and greif for the passing of another human being. Wars do not allow for the recognition of that instinct.

Listen to my interview (downloadable Mp3 file = 9.1 MB) with Teo where we talk about the Miami arts scene, the inspirations behind his work, his upcomng projects and listen to audio from the show "Scratch and Burn."

Day 6: Mongomery, AL to Atlanta, GA

2007-10-31T10:08:00.000-04:00

I wake up to a wonderful breakfast of homemade pancakes and eggs prepared by Butterfly Inn owners, Isaiah and Jhonnie Sankey. Randy Shoults, Community Arts Program Manager at the Alabama State Council on the Arts has met me here to take me back to their offices after breakfast. We talk about the trip so far and the artists coming to this afternoon's workshop. Soon, Joey Brackner, Director Alabama Center for Traditional Culture, stops by, this is on the way to work for him, he walks in every day - this reminds me of the car back in Atlanta, and how nice it would be not to have one. Joey and my mom go way back since they are both folklorists - so we talk a little about my family and then some German guests staying at the Inn come out and Joey tells them all of the sites to see in Montgomery.

When I arrive at the council, I'm floored by the Gallery space that they have, which has been curated by Visual Arts Program Manager, Georgine Clarke. I spend time with the staff, including Executive Director, Al Head, and talk about the SouthernArtistry.org nomination's process for 2008 and go over the twelve Alabama artists who joined the site this year. Al and the rest of the staff have some great ideas for the registry moving forward, including further integration with a touring artist registry and their online e-grants database. Then we break for lunch and Randy takes me on a walk to Cool Beans, a gallery and restaurant space that also specializes in music and good coffee drinks. Never before has the connection between food, art and entertainment been so apparent to me - good meals, good aesthetics, and good atmosphere are all such a large part of traveling and enjoying a particular place.

Before the workshop, Randy interviews me for the Alabama Arts Radio Series and we talk about the nomination process for SouthernArtistry.org, as well as, general advice on web site design and e-marketing, and why I'm on the road giving these workshops. A knock on the door and it is Georgine entering with Halloween Candy and cookies for refreshments during the workshop. Soon I meet comical furniture-maker, Dale Lewis and Mario Gallardo, then Charlie Rose, Bobby Michelson, and others show up. We have a good conversation, and again, time gets away from us. I am on the road by 5:30 and take this parting shot from the roof of the parking deck. Listen to a farewell speech leaving the city with 17,707 miles on the odometer.

The drive home is a few hours, but I don't feel like I have to turn on the radio. My head is full of so many other thoughts right now. Mostly I think about going back to the office, sitting on my ball chair, and looking at the screen of my computer. For the first time, since I started working with this site two years ago, I can stare at that screen and think of all of the faces that match the work I'm looking at and all of the emails that are prepared by hands that I've now shook.

I reach home around 9:30 p.m. with 17,852 miles on the odometer. 17,343 miles round-trip.

Day 5: Jackson, MS to Clinton, MS to Montgomery, AL

2007-10-30T07:30:00.000-04:00

I wake up at 7:00 a.m. in the the Old Capitol Inn and decide to take a trek up to the rooftop before breakfast - the view is fantastic and there is a fall chill in the air. The view looks something like this, but more stunning than my disposable camera can capture. Breakfast in the dining room is probably the BEST meal I've had on my entire trip, the biscuits are fluffy and buttery, the grits taste like cheese and have the warm stick-to-your-ribs characteristic, AND the fresh-baked strawberry muffins with homemade icing make me close my eyes and smile every time I take a bite.

I'm pretty excited to meet the rest of the Mississippi Arts Commission (MAC) staff after having such a good time with Judi and Diane last night. Judi was kind enough to show me exactly how to enter the parking deck of the building when she drove me back to the Inn last night - the deck has an entrance that appears as if you must drive onto the sidewalk first. I definitely would have circled the building if not clued into this detail early. I'm given a security check and visitors badge at the door and walk upstairs to the NEW offices of Mac - just having moved in the month before, they have done an incredible job of unpacking. The hope is to eventually use some of the new space that they have for a gallery that would be open to all visitors and eventually host rotating exhibits.

The entire staff gathers at 8:00a.m. in Executive Director, Malcolm White's office and one by one I hear what they have been up to. The camaraderie in the room is palpable and I love hearing about how connected these folks are to the community - not one of them has had a week where they did not leave the office to be in the field at least once. I have a few moments to talk with them about next season's nomination process for www.SouthernArtistry.org/ and the thirty-nine Mississippi artists who joined this year, then I join a few of them in Judi's office to outline the Administrative Tool that they are able to access for information about the artists on SouthernArtistry.org - it is a timely visit because they are moving into building a Mississippi, grants-focused database, which they would love to have some of the same features.

I follow Diane to her car for the drive to lunch, and ask her all about her 'other job' as a professional storyteller. Listen to the demonstration that she does for me with Grandma, who is along for the ride with us. I am tickled.

We arrive for lunch at Hal and Mal's, Malcolm's family restaurant/brewery. Malcolm's brother Hal comes out to greet us and talks soccer before disappearing back into the kitchen - I have the Portobello salad special and when offered one of Diane's tamale's am quickly told that I should not put the corn husk in my mouth - Diane unwraps it for me and we talk about having a Mississippi Tamale Trail and the great work being done at the Southern Foodways Alliance, where Malcolm has just returned from a conference.

After lunch, Diane and are not able to enter the Mississippi Museum of Art (closed on Mondays) so we go instead to a locally-owned gallery, operated by three women/artists. It's over on the side of town where Eudora Welty's house and final resting place are. Listen to a little bit about the Artichoke gallery and the demonstrations that they offer.

Next, it's onto the Clinton Visitor's Center where I'm greeted by tons of artists from the registry - record attendance for my workshop on websites and e-marketing. The kind staff of the Clinton Arts Council was there, including (pictured from left to right excluding myself, Diane Williams, and MalcolmWhite) Janie Fields, Libby Aydelott, and Barbara Selby - they provided refreshments and were kind enough to help me close the blinds so that I could project my presentation. They also helped keep the room temperature bearable with that many people - magic indeed. Malcolm introduced himself as their public servant and talked about plans to endow arts programming in Mississippi through a privately-funded pool and he was followed by Diane Williams who encouraged people to look around them and meet everyone in the room since SouthernArtistry.org is not only about connecting Southern artists to the general public, but also about connecting artists in the region to one another. The workshop runs from 2:00-5:00! An hour over. It's good to see folks excited about Web sites.

I get on the road now to Montgomery, AL - four hours way - with 17,452 miles on the odometer. It's been a great day.

Day 4: Bay St. Louis to Ocean Springs to Jackson, MS

2007-10-29T06:30:00.000-04:00

It's my day off and I am spending it the best way I know how, drinking a cup of tea and eating a raspberry and white chocolate scone while waiting for Gwen Impson, one of the artists on www.SouthernArtistry.org and also a dynamic leader of the ARTS Hancock County. Lori Gordon put me in touch with Gwen so that I could get a real honest tour of the recovery process in the arts community here in Bay St. Louis and the surrounding towns. Gwen recommended meeting up at the Mockingbird Cafe - a coffee shop, pub and gallery space that arrived just off of Main Street one year after Katrina hit. Owners Alicin and Martin Chambers are hoping to expand it into a restaurant at some point, but in the mean time, they provide live music (on my walk down to Gabbie's last night I heard it wafting from the streets.) On the walls, I notice the work of two more of the artists on our registry, painter and bee-keeper, Kat Fitzpatrick as well as, muralist and mosaic-maker, Elizabeth Veglia - I begin to realize how many of the artists on our registry are living and working together in this community and how thankful I (and many other visitors) am that they have not moved on elsewhere.

Gwen takes me on a tour of the main street and points out various buildings and galleries, which the area is famous for - some of which no longer exist and stand as water-damaged, wind blown shells and some of which, are just as colorful as a rainbow and as inviting. Listen to Gwen talking about the new bridge being built and how local artists are being recognized in that process thanks to the work of people like her and politicians who see what a community looks like with and without art. We arrive at the Lumberyard - the yard has since been converted into studio/gallery space for local artists, and classes are also taught out of this space (Photoshop design is the most popular at the moment.)

We run into yard co-owner, mixed-media artists, author, and photographer, Vicki Niolet - she talks about how the yard came to be. She has packed up her materials for a show in Pensacola, save a few copies of two books she published since the storm: "West Side Stories: Before, During and After Katrina" (pictured below and written in collaboration with Betty Stechmann) and "Parting Shots" a more humorous approach to chronicling the damage by pointing out the irony of the storm's destruction.

Vicki is kind enough to open her packed trunk and unwrap one of her pieces, "Mood Elevator,"(pictured here.) Listen to her talk about the inspiration behind the piece.

I also meet sculptor, Mary Ott Davidson and her husband Ken - Mary's work is mostly large-scale memorials and those with historic significance, but she also creates miniatures and small scale to share on days like these when the ARTS Alive tour is taking place.

Next, Gwen takes me past 220 Main - a co-op gallery that opened just 5 weeks after the storm - it is chock full of fantastic pieces including Lori Gordon's mixed-media assemblages, Betty Stechmann's photographs, David "Cairo" Wheeler's wood pieces, Michelle Allee's paintings and so much more. I am pressed for time and am sad to have to leave without purchasing anything - it seems that everything I see is surrounded by this magnificent energy of re-birth and new inspiration. From talking to many of these artists, one of the biggest changes that re-building has brought is a focus on a new medium - mostly out of necessity from the loss of materials like printing presses and canvases - there is so much assemblage work, and architecture/design work (imaging artists getting to start fresh with their living space?) that has entered many of their repertoires. Before we leave I have a chance to literally run through the Bay Artists Co-op on Necaise Ave. just past the old Train Depot where I meet Al "Breadman" Jensen, little does he know that his free samples of homemade rosemary-garlic and sourdough bread will serve as my mid-day meal while I hop from booth to booth getting quick interviews and taking pictures with the other artists in the co-op.

Listen to potter Mark Buszkiewicz talk about the inspirations behind his wildly-shaped vases.

Listen to painter and bee-keeper Kat Fitzpatrick talk about her work with bees since the Hurricane and how it integrates with the Byzantine icons in her work.

Listen to potter Reagan Carney talk about her most recent experiments with new glazes and how making these objects is about giving up control - her philosophy reminds me alot of the spirit of why people are able to move on with things after something like Katrina happens. The picture shown here is credited to the Sea Coast Echo - from their publication of the ArtsAlive! studio tour.

Listen to photographer-manipulator Marilynn Masters talk about how she emulsifies Polaroid prints and manipulates them to get the floating effect.

Listen to potter Dale Simmons talk about the natural surroundings that inspire is work and his wife's work and why the found beach glass that he incorporates into pot-handles turns purple in the sun.

WHEW.

After Gwen drives me back to my jeep, it's on the road to Ocean Springs - my trusty, pre-printed Google Maps tell me to get on a major interstate from here, but when I look at my road atlas, it tells me I can take coastal highway 90 all the way to Ocean Springs. Driving along the coast, I am reminded of how fragile our settlements are - entire high-rise casinos now exist as concrete slabs on the beachfront - I have flash backs of a former visit to Biloxi in 2000 when all of the swim suit shops and casinos lit the beach with light and color. It is the first time that I slightly grasp the absence that is all around me. If there is one thing that this visit has taught me, it is that absence is not necessarily a negative thing, it brings with it opportunity - but sometimes the shock of it is enough to make you question starting over. I don't make it to Ocean Springs on coastal highway 90 because the bridge is still out past Biloxi - apparently, there will be a big celebration tomorrow for the re-opening of that bridge.

When I finally arrive in Ocean Springs, I'm greeted by Glenn Miller -etcher/printmaker and now interior designer working also with paper and pastels. During Katrina, the water reached to the roof of his house and all of his belongings were coated. The salt content of the water corroded many of the metal plates that he used for his printmaking. Here's Glenn's work before and after.

Here's Glenn talking about this recent work, which includes automatic drawing techniques and references his attitude towards the hurricane. The peice he references is the one you see sitting in the middle of the desk.

After spending time with Glenn and his girlfriend Teri looking at all of the work he has done to the interior of his former studio - now living space - we go up to his tree house which overlooks a nearby park. It is a beautiful day, and from the tree tops, everything feels as if it could never be touched by waves - not from up here.

Armed with some squares of dark chocolate and a banana (thanks Glenn) I drive many hours north to Jackson, MS and check into my room at the Old Capitol Inn. This place is known for it's roof-top serenity garden and jacuzzi that overlook downtown - my brain is so full, that all I can do is plop down on my bed and await a pick up from Judi Pulliman from the Mississippi Arts Commission. She arrives and takes me to eat sushi with colleague Diane Williams - we discuss the merits of a colorful plate, and hot tea.

Day 3: New Orleans to Waveland, MS

2007-10-28T08:00:00.000-04:00

What my hostel lacks in hygiene, it makes up for in hospitality - the front desk staff is extremely friendly and helps me decide where to get a good cup of tea. I end up at Still Perkin' on Prytania St. where I get loose-leaf green tea and recount my adventures while preparing for the afternoon workshop I will give as part of Louisiana ArtWorks Professional Development Weekend series. The weather is perfect and after little rest, I nearly fall asleep on the table sitting in the sun.

I wander next door to the RINK which used to be an old roller skating rink and has now been converted into gallery space and bookstores. I'm about to purchase a book when my sister calls from Bolivia to tell me what she is up to. We share stories and then she's got to catch the next flota out of town. I'm on the street now and in front of me looms my car and behind it, the LaFayette Cemetery (No. 1) where I step inside and walk amongst the above-ground graves and make up stories for people buried there. On All Souls Day, this Cemetery does not close.

Next is is onto the Amtrak Building where the Workshops are being held. This is an annex location for LA Artworks while they finish a capital campaign for their 90,000 square foot space dedicated to artist resources and studio spaces. Listen to Joy Glidden, Director, talk about this soon-to-open venue and its mission. I'm very excited about the potential for this space and go on to give my workshop to a small audience of folks while wearing a clip on mic so that the camera they are using to tape the workshop can pick up my words. Yes, I trip over the mic cord several times.

I'm sad to leave New Orleans - Nick Spitzer, host of American Routes radio show, has just called to tell me about some great music happening in town and all about a second line parade that will be taking place this evening - but, it is off to visit Lori Gordon in Bay St. Louis, MS and catch the tail end of the beach-side screening of the film, Mississippi Son, projected on the only remaining wall of the Fire Dog (pub) since Hurricane Katrina took the remaining walls two years ago. After a dinner of garlic-encrusted snapper at the Sycamore House - where I listen to the toasts accompanying a of a 50th wedding anniversary- I walk down the street to meet up with the cast and crew and Lori - who are all hanging out at Gabbie's, the first standing building as you walk up Main St. from the beach. I have never been to Bay St. Louis before, but walking on the street at night, I get a sense of peace, and also a sense of absence.

By the time I reach Bay St. Louis, there are 17,210 miles on the odometer. When I walk into Gabbie's, I'm greeted by Lori, her mother, and her mother's husband, Al - the latter of which have traveled here from South Dakota! Philip Levin, President of the Gulf Coast Writer's Association, who during Katrina also served as an emergency room doctor - a time when the hospital saw an increase from 150 patients a day to over 400 - also joins us. Philip recounts not having a house to go home to and being glad to have a place to be in the hospital, which had both electricity and running water thanks to a hospital administrators urging for generators and emergency preparedness after Hurricane Camille hit the Gulf Coast over two and a half decades ago. The stories continue as I meet the cast a crew. I can't help but think about how people -- and those who practice some creative endeavor in particular -- are an extremely resilient. Life keeps rolling on.

Day 2: Baton Rouge to New Orleans

2007-10-27T02:29:00.000-04:00

Well rested and ready to work. I arrive at the Louisiana Division of the Arts to meet super-star Ann Russo (Director of Artist Services) who has helped me so much with planning this visit. I talk to the staff about www.SouthernArtistry.org/ and how the nomination process currently works for this juried registry of outstanding Southern visual artists, performers, filmmakers, authors, and designers. Now that we have over 1,000 artists on the site, we are discussing how we might in the future adjust the nominations process for artists joining the site (a regional panel?), make changes to the artistic discipline categories (adding culinary arts perhaps?), and how to train artists to enjoy creating and maintaining their own Web-site. Sixteen artists joined this year from the state of Louisiana.

We take a break for lunch and I join Ann, Dana La Fonta (Percent for Art Program Director), Maida Owens (Director of Folklife Services), Thomas Ray (Program Analyst / Panel Coordinator). We go to the Buzz Cafe - which has all sorts of veggie specials, local artist's paintings hanging on the walls, and fresh-baked cookies (my favorite!) and talk about everything from siblings to hazardous recipes made in desperation when food stock is low in one's home. After lunch, it is on to the Visitor's Center where I host my first "Tools for the 21st Century" workshop on Web-site Design and E-Marketing. Some of the artists I meet at the workshop include Luz Maria Lopez, Kate Trepagnier, Leslie Addison, Rosemary Goodell, Mary Ann Caffery, and George Yerger.

I drive to New Orleans and get to the Marquette House, just as the sun is going down. Located in the Garden District, this hostel promised to be one of the more quiet options compared to others in the city. The reason I ended up in a hostel on a business trip, is because I am still new to making budgets and when it came time to take my trip, I realized that I was going to have to cut some costs. I chose lodging to cut. For $20 a night, I could sleep in a dorm-style room with 7 other women. I had backpacked before and hostels were not new to me.

The house parakeet, Beau Jangles, greeted me upon arrival and I signed a 'no refunds' disclaimer before going back to my bunk and realizing that I am not as adventurous as I used to be. My bunk-mate below, had just heated up a very odoriferous meal and was eating it on top of a mound of clothes that made it appear as if she had been a guest there for over a month. As I tried to climb the ladder, she made no effort to remove the wet towels that were drying on the exact rung where my feet would need to step in order to comfortably climb the ladder. After struggling to the top and getting a view of the mattress, I laid down the towel I had been given upon my arrival along with the provided sheets and blanket. I then decided to stay out as long as I could bare so as to spend the least amount of time lying on this mattress.

Fortunately, I had traveled to New Orleans a few months before and knew that I would enjoy being back on Frenchman Street. As I was leaving the hostel, there was a woman with a blue-tooth in her ear and a small child - the child begins to roll about on the floor next to my leg as I am asking for directions from the hostel staff and then begins biting the leg of my pants. The mother (I assume) says 'Stop bothering that lady, you don't know her.' to the kid. Along with this odd pair, there is a guy who seems to know them in some way that I cannot determine. I agreed to give a guy a ride to the outskirts of the French Quarter (which I was planning on avoiding). As we drove, I come to find out that he was from South Africa and had been traveling for several months starting in New York and headed to California. His ride share (the mother/baby duo) had turned out to be a total disaster and he was contemplating other ways of getting to the West Coast. I encouraged him to trust his friend's advice when they tell him that hitchhiking in America is NOT a good idea. But, he is reading "On the Road." I hope he makes it to California.

We end up on Frenchman St. talking about travels and eat a fantastic meal at the Marigny Brasserie - this is a picture he sent to me (he made it to California!) of the apple pie with vanilla ice cream and Bourbon sauce - you may be able to tell how much I love desserts from this picture. Do not be alarmed. Next, we head over to the Spotted Cat where we spend the rest of the evening watching 5 couples swing dance on a floor the size of a walk-in closet and listening to the magnificent vibe put out by the Jazz Vipers.

The Tools of the 21st Century Road Tour Begins!

2007-10-25T22:07:00.000-04:00

Thursday, Oct. 25 2007 - I did not sleep well last night - between realizing that my grandmother's car, which I've been driving for the past year and a half is now worth less than the cost of fixing it, I am contemplating the thought of living in Atlanta without a car. Scooters, MARTA, flex cars - I actually dreamed about these things last night, Fortunately, I get this road trip to contemplate never having to drive again. I rented a car - a Jeep Compass. The aesthetic of the car is somewhere between soccer mom and space ship. Here's me giving my farewell speech to Atlanta with 16,509 miles on the odometer. I arrive in Citronelle, AL - I stretch my legs on a near by peninsula overlooking a very dirty creek. Listen to me getting tired of driving and wondering what the other gas station patrons are thinking of the girl doing yoga stretches and talking into a tiny machine. I've decided that never driving again might not be a bad idea.

Ah, Baton Rogue at last - 17,029 miles on the odometer! I come to my docking space at the Stockade Bed and Breakfast - built on top of the remains of an old civil war stockade (union side) and covered with artwork thanks to owner Janice DeLerno who also manages the Frameworks gallery across the street. Janice shows me to the Blue Room and my balcony, where I drink a cup of complimentary tea, watch the sun slip beneath the trees and prepare myself for dinner on the town. I make it down to the Chimes where I eat New Orleans style shrimp (after being told that my iodine count and thus my circulation could be improved my eating these little beasts) and have a pint of Abita's Turbo Dog - tastes a little chocolate-y. Leaving the Chimes, I take time to wander across the huge quad of Louisiana State University. The live oak trees have branches that scrape the ground and the moon is almost full and shining bright in a clear night sky. I realize how lucky I am to have made it safely and how glad I am to be on the road.